Tuesday, December 23, 2014
Thursday, December 11, 2014
Tuesday, November 25, 2014
Tuesday, November 4, 2014
TOP RECOMMENDED WINTER GARDENING TIPS TO FOLLOW
A garden is a great addition to a home and most people do not regret planting one in their yard. While it is a fun hobby and an excellent way to enjoy healthy and fresh fruits and vegetables, it is also a lot of hard work. It also requires a person to plan and take a few steps to make sure the plants stay healthy throughout the year. With that being said, a person with a garden should follow these Top 10 Winter Gardening Tips as this will help the plants live longer and the garden flourish.
1. MULCH
During the cold and inclement winter months, plants will have a hard time avoiding the elements. When this happens, depending on the variety, they will have a harder time recovering in the spring. To protect plants and keep everything warm, a gardener should add mulch and place it under and around the plants. This will help keep the root temperature stable which will ensure that the plant does not succumb to the elements. Now, when placing the mulch around the garden, a person should do it in early December as this will allow it to settle in and start protecting the plants before a significant cold snaps hits.
2. COMPOST
Some people neglect their garden in the winter as they feel the plants do not require any protection or care. This could not be further from the truth, and a serious gardener who wants his or her plants to thrive should add compost. When adding this at the right time, it will supply nutrients to the soil and the plants will grow faster and not succumb to the elements. Ideally, when adding the compost, a person should only put about three inches worth around the plants as it will still allow them to breathe and grow.
3. WATER
Before a freeze, a person should water their plants, especially annuals and potted plants. This will help the plants as the roots will not freeze as the water will not reach that area. Of course, when doing this, a person must make sure to water their roots and above ground shoots. When doing this ahead of a cold storm, a person can protect their plants, and they will look good throughout the winter.
4. EXTRA PROTECTION
A person with container plants should cover them with a frost cloth or protective blanket. To keep potted plants warm, a person can also set them near the foundation of the house as it is warmer than the rest of the yard. However, during severe storms, a gardener should bring his or her vulnerable plants inside the house or garage. Ideally, when following this tip, a homeowner would watch the weather forecast so he or she can bring in the plants before the storm hits as it will go a long way in protecting the delicate leaves and roots of a plant.
5. CONTINUE
If the ground is soft enough to dig a big hole, a gardener should continue to plant. This will allow a person to continue to improve the yard and complete the job before the spring. This is beneficial, especially in climates where it does not get extremely cold. With that being said, it may not work for gardeners in the northern states. However, people living in the south or on the west coast can, with ease, put in new items in their garden most of the year.
6. ANIMALS
In some areas of the country, animals will try to eat a plant as they will have no other choice. Now, this is not usually problematic for a gardener living in an urban environment, but it will come up when a person lives in the country. To prevent this and protect the plants, a gardener must take steps to protect the plants by placing a barrier around the edge of the garden. Remember, animals, in the colder months, will snap up plants and eat them.
7. LOCATION
When planting right before the cold months, a person should try to place their plants facing the north. When exposed to the north, they will receive more sunlight and a greater temperature variation. For a new plant, this is crucial as it will sustain less damage and thrive when it gets enough sunlight. This is one of the most important winter gardening tips to follow, and it is easy to do so as most experienced gardeners know where the plants should face.
8. CAREFUL
When placing salt or other substances on the driveway or street, a gardener should exercise caution. With salts from the road seeping into the garden, plants will suffer as it will create a bad PH balance. To prevent this, when laying salt on the driveway, a homeowner should do it slowly and methodically when around the garden or plants. When protecting the winter landscaping with this tip, a gardener can avoid a serious problem on his or her hands.
9. CHOOSE CAREFULLY
When planting in, and right before, the winter, a person should know which plants will thrive. This is a great idea as some plants will do poorly in the winter while others will continue to grow. Now, to understand which plants work, a person will have to do some research as it varies depending in the regions of the world. However, when following this tip, a person can have a successful winter landscaping setup.
10. FERTILIZE OFTEN
In the winter, plants will suffer from the elements. While this is hard to prevent, a person can fertilize the plants regularly to give them a fighting chance. With the right fertilizer, a person can strengthen the plants. Ideally, when doing this, a gardener should do it often as the plants will need all the help they can get. This is one of the most important winter gardening ideas a person should follow as it is difficult for some shrubs to survive without adequate nutrients and care.
Monday, October 20, 2014
#HOW TO STORE #WINTER #SQUASH !
Many gardeners raise winter squash because they store well. In fact, the term “winter squash” refers to the time when these vegetables are stored, not when they’re grown or harvested. They are planted in late spring and grown through summer just like summer squash, but winter squash require more days to maturity and are harvested in fall.
After fall harvest, it’s a simple process to prepare squash for storage that lasts well into winter. Storing squash saves you money by serving up garden-fresh flavors in the heart of winter. Savory soups, sweet desserts, and steamy side dishes are some of the tastiest uses for winter squash.
Best of all, stored winter squash demands no elaborate preservation technique. Curing is the secret to successful long-term storage, and it’s almost as easy as harvesting.
What is curing?
Curing is simply storing winter squash at a warm temperature with good air circulation for a period of time, usually 10 to 14 days.
Why cure squash?
When you harvest winter squash, the mature fruits contain excess water. The process of curing squash allows some of that water to exit the fruit. Getting rid of excess water does several things:
It concentrates the natural sugars, which makes the squash taste sweeter.
It slows the fruit’s respiration rate, which enhances long-term storage.
It helps reduce chances of rot.
Winter squash can develop soft rot while in storage.
Inspect stored squash weekly. If you see spots start to appear, move that squash away from others, placing it onto a plastic saucer. Plan to use it soonest. These spots will eventually coalesce and become water-soaked, and the entire squash will collapse in rot. (Photo by Julie Martens)
A harvested winter squash continues to breathe or respire. During the curing process, the skin becomes harder, forming a protective layer over flesh. That harder skin slows respiration, which ultimately improves fruit keeping quality. Harder skin also resists rot better, another secret for problem-free long-term storage.
How long do cured squash keep?
How you pick and handle winter squash directly affects how well they store. Follow these simple tips to ensure your squash cures and lasts well.
Winter squash can develop a ground stain where it touched the ground.
Ground stain is just what it sounds like: marks on squash skin where it rested against the ground. The flesh is fine beneath the discoloration. (Photo by Julie Martens)
Cure blemish-free fruit. If skin is broken or bruised, fruit won’t store well.
Use scissors or pruners to cut squash from vines. Pulling can easily dislodge or break the stem, which creates a large wound on fruit that’s likely to rot.
Maintain 2- to 3-inch-long stems on squash. If stems break off or loosen, fruit won’t store well. Use fruit with broken stems first and store others.
Frost shortens storage life. A light frost can help sweeten some winter squash, but it drastically reduces storage life. Harvest all squash before night temperatures dip into the 40s.
Keep squash dry. Don’t handle or harvest wet fruit.
Gently remove any bits of blossom clinging to the bottom of squash.
Storage life varies by squash type. Acorn squash stores the shortest amount of time: 4 weeks. Spaghetti stores four to five weeks; Buttercup, 13 weeks; Butternut, up to six months; Blue Hubbard, six to seven months.
You’ll see best storage results when you stash squash in a cool, dry spot. For most winter squash, store at 50º to 55º F with relative humidity of 60 to 70 percent. The one exception, again, is Acorn squash, which should be kept at temperatures less than 55. Higher temperatures cause the flesh to become stringy. Avoid storing squash in higher humidity, which can promote rots to start.
After fall harvest, it’s a simple process to prepare squash for storage that lasts well into winter. Storing squash saves you money by serving up garden-fresh flavors in the heart of winter. Savory soups, sweet desserts, and steamy side dishes are some of the tastiest uses for winter squash.
Best of all, stored winter squash demands no elaborate preservation technique. Curing is the secret to successful long-term storage, and it’s almost as easy as harvesting.
What is curing?
Curing is simply storing winter squash at a warm temperature with good air circulation for a period of time, usually 10 to 14 days.
Why cure squash?
When you harvest winter squash, the mature fruits contain excess water. The process of curing squash allows some of that water to exit the fruit. Getting rid of excess water does several things:
It concentrates the natural sugars, which makes the squash taste sweeter.
It slows the fruit’s respiration rate, which enhances long-term storage.
It helps reduce chances of rot.
Winter squash can develop soft rot while in storage.
Inspect stored squash weekly. If you see spots start to appear, move that squash away from others, placing it onto a plastic saucer. Plan to use it soonest. These spots will eventually coalesce and become water-soaked, and the entire squash will collapse in rot. (Photo by Julie Martens)
A harvested winter squash continues to breathe or respire. During the curing process, the skin becomes harder, forming a protective layer over flesh. That harder skin slows respiration, which ultimately improves fruit keeping quality. Harder skin also resists rot better, another secret for problem-free long-term storage.
How long do cured squash keep?
How you pick and handle winter squash directly affects how well they store. Follow these simple tips to ensure your squash cures and lasts well.
Winter squash can develop a ground stain where it touched the ground.
Ground stain is just what it sounds like: marks on squash skin where it rested against the ground. The flesh is fine beneath the discoloration. (Photo by Julie Martens)
Cure blemish-free fruit. If skin is broken or bruised, fruit won’t store well.
Use scissors or pruners to cut squash from vines. Pulling can easily dislodge or break the stem, which creates a large wound on fruit that’s likely to rot.
Maintain 2- to 3-inch-long stems on squash. If stems break off or loosen, fruit won’t store well. Use fruit with broken stems first and store others.
Frost shortens storage life. A light frost can help sweeten some winter squash, but it drastically reduces storage life. Harvest all squash before night temperatures dip into the 40s.
Keep squash dry. Don’t handle or harvest wet fruit.
Gently remove any bits of blossom clinging to the bottom of squash.
Storage life varies by squash type. Acorn squash stores the shortest amount of time: 4 weeks. Spaghetti stores four to five weeks; Buttercup, 13 weeks; Butternut, up to six months; Blue Hubbard, six to seven months.
You’ll see best storage results when you stash squash in a cool, dry spot. For most winter squash, store at 50º to 55º F with relative humidity of 60 to 70 percent. The one exception, again, is Acorn squash, which should be kept at temperatures less than 55. Higher temperatures cause the flesh to become stringy. Avoid storing squash in higher humidity, which can promote rots to start.
Monday, September 22, 2014
How to Store Onions
Onions are indispensable in the kitchen, and because they keep so well, they're available all year round. If you grow your own onions and store them you can permanently cross them off your grocery list. Learn how to select onions to store and create the right conditions to store them so they retain their taste and nutritional value for up to ten months.
1. Store late-season onions. The onions you harvest in the spring and summer are not hardy enough to store. They should be eaten within a few weeks of harvesting. Plan to store onions that are harvested in the fall, since these varieties are able to last through the winter.
If you grow your own onions, plan to store onions that you plant during the spring.
Onions are ready to harvest for storage in the late summer or early fall, when the top of the plant begins to fall over and dry up.
2. Store pungent onions. Pungent onions, as opposed to mild onions, have sulfurous compounds that cause you to tear up when you chop them and also help preserve the onions through the winter. Mild onions don't have this self-preservation system, so they should be eaten a few weeks after they're harvested. The following varieties of globe onions do well in long-term storage:
Yellow onions such as ebenezer, yellow globe, downing yellow globe, and yellow globe danvers.
White onions such as southport white globes. These should only be stored if their necks are small.
Red onions including wethersfield and southport red globe.
3. Dry the onion skins. After the onions are harvested, spread them out in a ventilated area so that the skins can harden. Do not remove the leaves. Allow the onions to cure for two to four weeks.
Dry the onions location away from sunlight and humidity. Sunlight can taint the taste of the onions and make them bitter. Lay a tarp in your garage or a shed. The environment should be dry, warm and breezy.
The onions are finished curing when their stems are no longer green. The onions' skin should be withered around the stem and wrapped tightly around the onions.
4. Trim the onions. Once the stems are completely dry, use sharp scissors or a knife to trim the roots from the onions.
Discard onions that still have green stems at this point, as well as those that are bruised or have broken paper.
Cut the leaves at least an inch above the bulb, or leave them intact and braid the leaves together.
5. Choose a cool, dark place to store your onions. The space should have a temperature maintained between 40 - 50 degrees Fahrenheit, or 4 - 10 degrees Celsius. Many people opt to store their onions in a root cellar or basement. If the space is too warm, your onions will begin to sprout. If the location you chose is too cold, the onions will start to rot.
Keep the storage space dry. Onions easily absorb moisture, and the wetness in the air will rot your produce. The humidity level should be kept at 65 - 70 percent.
6. Make sure the space is well ventilated. Keeping air flowing around the onions will help prevent molding and rotting.
For good ventilation, hang the onions in mesh baskets, netted bags or pantyhose.
If you decide to use pantyhose as a storage option, tie a knot between each bulb. Use the bulbs from the bottom, cutting the onion out below the knot so the onion above it stays secure. You can also use string or twist ties in between the onions to keep them separate.
1. Store late-season onions. The onions you harvest in the spring and summer are not hardy enough to store. They should be eaten within a few weeks of harvesting. Plan to store onions that are harvested in the fall, since these varieties are able to last through the winter.
If you grow your own onions, plan to store onions that you plant during the spring.
Onions are ready to harvest for storage in the late summer or early fall, when the top of the plant begins to fall over and dry up.
2. Store pungent onions. Pungent onions, as opposed to mild onions, have sulfurous compounds that cause you to tear up when you chop them and also help preserve the onions through the winter. Mild onions don't have this self-preservation system, so they should be eaten a few weeks after they're harvested. The following varieties of globe onions do well in long-term storage:
Yellow onions such as ebenezer, yellow globe, downing yellow globe, and yellow globe danvers.
White onions such as southport white globes. These should only be stored if their necks are small.
Red onions including wethersfield and southport red globe.
3. Dry the onion skins. After the onions are harvested, spread them out in a ventilated area so that the skins can harden. Do not remove the leaves. Allow the onions to cure for two to four weeks.
Dry the onions location away from sunlight and humidity. Sunlight can taint the taste of the onions and make them bitter. Lay a tarp in your garage or a shed. The environment should be dry, warm and breezy.
The onions are finished curing when their stems are no longer green. The onions' skin should be withered around the stem and wrapped tightly around the onions.
4. Trim the onions. Once the stems are completely dry, use sharp scissors or a knife to trim the roots from the onions.
Discard onions that still have green stems at this point, as well as those that are bruised or have broken paper.
Cut the leaves at least an inch above the bulb, or leave them intact and braid the leaves together.
5. Choose a cool, dark place to store your onions. The space should have a temperature maintained between 40 - 50 degrees Fahrenheit, or 4 - 10 degrees Celsius. Many people opt to store their onions in a root cellar or basement. If the space is too warm, your onions will begin to sprout. If the location you chose is too cold, the onions will start to rot.
Keep the storage space dry. Onions easily absorb moisture, and the wetness in the air will rot your produce. The humidity level should be kept at 65 - 70 percent.
6. Make sure the space is well ventilated. Keeping air flowing around the onions will help prevent molding and rotting.
For good ventilation, hang the onions in mesh baskets, netted bags or pantyhose.
If you decide to use pantyhose as a storage option, tie a knot between each bulb. Use the bulbs from the bottom, cutting the onion out below the knot so the onion above it stays secure. You can also use string or twist ties in between the onions to keep them separate.
Monday, September 1, 2014
9 Tips to Keep Your Garden Going While On Vacation
Many of us grow vegetable gardens so we can enjoy fresh produce. But gardens need tending, especially during peak summer-vacation season. That can pose a problem.
Weeds threaten to take over my garden if I don’t get out there every few days, and if it’s exceedingly hot and doesn’t rain at least every other day, I have to water. Produce also needs to be picked before it over-ripens or birds and bunnies take a nibble. So what to do if you are going on vacation? It’s a shame to start seeds and watch them grow and flourish only to miss out on harvesting your bounty. Here are some tips on keeping your garden going when you’re on vacation so you don’t return to find your vegetable patch ruined.
1. Water Well and Mulch
Just before leaving on vacation, give your garden a really good watering and then mulch around the base of each plant to help retain moisture. Depending on how long you’re gone and how hot it is while you’re away, you might return to wilted plants, but hopefully you won’t lose any. The mulch will also help keep the weeds down.
2. Equip a Non-Traveling Family Member to Help
Rebecca Sweet of Harmony in the Garden is a landscape designer, public speaker and author who shared the following advice.
"As a public speaker, I spend a fair amount of time traveling and have devised a simple way to help my non-gardening husband keep a watchful eye on my garden,” she says. "Even though the majority of my garden is hooked up to automatic irrigation, there are always a few containers or areas of my garden that rely on hand-watering. To help catch my husband’s attention, I place a few ‘indicator’ plants in containers near the back door. Indicator plants are those that wilt much faster than others (such as hydrangea or lettuce). One look at them on a hot day and he knows it’s time to get the hose out!”
This is a great tip, especially if you have a willing helper who isn’t a confident gardener. An indicator plant makes it easy for them to know how much and how often to water.
3. Install an Automatic Irrigation System
An automatic irrigation system, as mentioned above, is a great way to ensure your garden stays well-hydrated. Kits aren’t that expensive and are easy to install. The irrigation system won’t solve the problem of your vegetables over ripening on the vines, but it might be easier to recruit a neighbor to just come pick every few days if they don’t have to worry about watering, too.
4. Put a Timer on your Soaker Hose or Sprinkler
If an irrigation system is too high-tech for you, it’s even easier to install a timer on a soaker hose or sprinkler. Again, you’ll still have to recruit a picker, but at least your garden will be watered.
5. Find a Garden Buddy
Mike Podlesney, host of the Mike the Gardener podcasts and founder of Seeds of the Month Club has this advice:
"My neighbor looks out for my garden for me. Although I turn the water off to the main house, I leave the line open to the hose hookup outside so my neighbor can water if necessary. He comes over and checks to see if anything needs to be picked. And I’m doing the same for him this week while he’s on vacation.”
6. Make Self-Watering Jugs
Save up your milk, soda and water jugs prior to your vacation. Water your garden well just before you leave, then poke a few holes in the bottom of each jug, fill with water and place around your garden with the mouth of each jug pushed several inches into the ground. The water will drip out of the jugs slowly while you’re gone and keep the soil moist.
7. Time your Harvest
This takes a bit of planning, but if you have enough advance notice of vacation plans, you can try to time your harvest to occur before you leave. Most seed packets list the days to germination and days to harvest, so just count backwards from several days before you will be leaving (to give you time to eat, can or freeze your harvest before you go) to figure out when you need to plant. Start your seeds indoors if you need to get a jumpstart. Alternatively, time things so your vegetables won’t be ready to harvest until after you return. This will allow you more time to can or preserve your bounty once you get back home.
8. Time your Vacation
Of course, this whole issue can be avoided if you go on vacation in the winter. Why leave your beautiful home in the summer anyway when everything is blooming, it’s warm and sunny, and you have a glut of fresh produce to eat? Go away in the dead of winter instead when you need a break from the cold and snow!
9. Feed the Wild
Lastly, if none of these tips are feasible for you, then open up your garden for the week and let the rabbits, deer and other wild animals have a feast! Then plan on letting your chickens and ducks (if you raise them) into the garden when you return to clean up what’s left. At least nothing will go to waste!
Each of these tips is good on its own, but combining a few can also be effective to help your garden get through your absence. Also remember to cage or stake any plants that will need that extra support while you’re gone … and enjoy your trip!
Tuesday, July 1, 2014
Rabbit Predators
There are many rabbit predators that will attack or eat the rabbit, including man. In fact, rabbits have more than most.
Depending in which part of the world you live, will determine the most likely predators you need to be aware of.
With domestic/pet rabbits, perhaps the most common predators are pet dogs, pet cats and foxes.
However, don't think these are the only ones.
Many people are surprised to learn that large birds are a predator to rabbits, especially if the rabbit is a baby, young or a small breed type. Such birds, depending on where you live, include Hawks, Sparrow
Hawks, Owls, Falcons, and kestrels.
Other rabbit predators include Weasels, ferrets, badgers, stoats and snakes.
If you have a pet rabbit and it is outside for any amount of time you must give the rabbit constant supervision. When not supervising, it
is recommended that the rabbit is kept inside a secure run or hutch.
Rabbits can die from shock or a heart attack just because a predator is stalking around outside the hutch. When confronted by a predator the rabbit can panic and injure themselves or simply die of shock.
Any hutch or run must have a private box or hiding area to really protect your rabbit. You should let the rabbit escape and hide, like into a private box in the hutch. Keep a close eye on your rabbit while it is out.
With their acute vision, hearing and smell, a rabbit can sense the presence of a predator, such as fox or a raccoon (depending where in the world you live), even in your neighbour's yard.
Many raccoons and foxes can open hutches. The raccoon can climb tress and open doors. Foxes may live under sheds or tree roots/stumps.
No garden or yard is free of predators whether you live in the city or the countryside. If you're in a part of the world where you get Raccoons, they can easily travel up through storm drains and arrive in urban areas.
With some rabbit predators, wire cages are no protection for a rabbit. If your rabbit cannot stay in your house at night, then it is always best to try and make sure the rabbit is enclosed within solid walls such as a garage, basement or in a garden shed over night.
Again with pet rabbits, humans can also be a threat, if the rabbit is left outside in a hutch overnight or even unguarded in a run during the
day.
For wild rabbits, any other wild animal, large or hungry enough to be bothered, can be a predator.
Humans of course top the list of rabbit's predators and have been the rabbit's main enemy for the last 200 years or so, since the rabbit was regarded as a major pest.
Wild rabbits cause a lot of damage to crops, farmers land, gardens and the countryside.
During the 20th century when the rabbit population was much larger, they caused such extensive damage to crops and trees and in Britain, they were included in the Pests Act 1954.
Man, then became the biggest of the rabbit predators.
Depending in which part of the world you live, will determine the most likely predators you need to be aware of.
With domestic/pet rabbits, perhaps the most common predators are pet dogs, pet cats and foxes.
However, don't think these are the only ones.
Many people are surprised to learn that large birds are a predator to rabbits, especially if the rabbit is a baby, young or a small breed type. Such birds, depending on where you live, include Hawks, Sparrow
Hawks, Owls, Falcons, and kestrels.
Other rabbit predators include Weasels, ferrets, badgers, stoats and snakes.
If you have a pet rabbit and it is outside for any amount of time you must give the rabbit constant supervision. When not supervising, it
is recommended that the rabbit is kept inside a secure run or hutch.
Rabbits can die from shock or a heart attack just because a predator is stalking around outside the hutch. When confronted by a predator the rabbit can panic and injure themselves or simply die of shock.
Any hutch or run must have a private box or hiding area to really protect your rabbit. You should let the rabbit escape and hide, like into a private box in the hutch. Keep a close eye on your rabbit while it is out.
With their acute vision, hearing and smell, a rabbit can sense the presence of a predator, such as fox or a raccoon (depending where in the world you live), even in your neighbour's yard.
Many raccoons and foxes can open hutches. The raccoon can climb tress and open doors. Foxes may live under sheds or tree roots/stumps.
No garden or yard is free of predators whether you live in the city or the countryside. If you're in a part of the world where you get Raccoons, they can easily travel up through storm drains and arrive in urban areas.
With some rabbit predators, wire cages are no protection for a rabbit. If your rabbit cannot stay in your house at night, then it is always best to try and make sure the rabbit is enclosed within solid walls such as a garage, basement or in a garden shed over night.
Again with pet rabbits, humans can also be a threat, if the rabbit is left outside in a hutch overnight or even unguarded in a run during the
day.
For wild rabbits, any other wild animal, large or hungry enough to be bothered, can be a predator.
Humans of course top the list of rabbit's predators and have been the rabbit's main enemy for the last 200 years or so, since the rabbit was regarded as a major pest.
Wild rabbits cause a lot of damage to crops, farmers land, gardens and the countryside.
During the 20th century when the rabbit population was much larger, they caused such extensive damage to crops and trees and in Britain, they were included in the Pests Act 1954.
Man, then became the biggest of the rabbit predators.
Friday, June 13, 2014
What to Feed Your Goats
Before you get your goats, you need to make sure you have all the feeding equipment they need, as well as a stockpile of food. All goats need certain kinds of feed, but they have differing nutritional requirements depending on their gender and what stage of life they're in.
Goats are browsers, like deer, which means they prefer trees, bushes, and woody weeds; rather than standing still and eating grass down to the roots, they like to stay on the move, eating a bit of this and a bit of that. Goats can learn to graze a pasture, but don't expect it to be "mowed." The grass helps supplement the goats' diet, but low grazing also can spread parasites.
Goats have specific nutritional needs, only some of which are met by the plants on your farm that they browse on. You have to provide feed for the needs that can't be met by browsing. Unless you have a lot of property with a variety of browse, feed will be your biggest expense in raising goats. Don't scrimp on goat feed — it will pay dividends in good health, milk production, and lower veterinary bills.
Feeding hay and alfalfa
Hay is the main source of nutrients for goats in non-grazing seasons, or all the time if they don't have access to browse. Grass hay provides a moderate amount of protein and energy for the goat diet. Legume hays, such as clover and alfalfa, usually have more protein, vitamins, and minerals, particularly calcium, than grass hays. This varies depending on the maturity of the hay or alfalfa and the way that it's cured and stored.
Each goat needs 2 to 4 pounds of hay each day, although some of this need can be met by available pasture or other forage. Make it available free choice throughout the day when pasture is unavailable or feed twice a day when goats are also browsing.
You can feed alfalfa (and some grass hays) in pellet form if you don't have storage or if you want to mix it with grain. The goats don't waste so much alfalfa when it's in pellets, and you can limit who gets it by combining it with their grain.
Using chaffhaye instead of hay and alfalfa
Chaffhaye is forage in a bag and substitutes for hay. To make chaffhaye, producers cut early alfalfa or grass, chop it, mist it with molasses, add the culture bacillus subtillis, and vacuum-pack it into 50-pound bags. The treated hay ferments in the bag, adding good bacteria that's easy for goats to digest. It provides more energy, vitamins, and minerals than dried hay.
Goats need up to 2 pounds of chaffhaye per 100 pounds of body weight when you feed it as an alternative to hay. The nutritional value of one 50-pound bag of chaffhaye is equivalent to an 85- to 100-pound bale of good-quality hay.
Feeding grain
Grain or pelleted grain mixes add protein, vitamins, and minerals to a goat's diet. Some are formulated specifically for goats. Grain options include the following:
Whole grain: This is the whole, unprocessed grain seed head.
Pelleted grain: A product made from grain or grain byproducts milled into small pieces and then made into pellets by adding a binding agent.
Rolled grain: Nutritionally identical to whole grain, rolled grain is simply rolled so that it's flat.
Texturized grain: Similar to rolled grain, texturized feed mixes usually have other ingredients added to improve nutrition.
Goats are browsers, like deer, which means they prefer trees, bushes, and woody weeds; rather than standing still and eating grass down to the roots, they like to stay on the move, eating a bit of this and a bit of that. Goats can learn to graze a pasture, but don't expect it to be "mowed." The grass helps supplement the goats' diet, but low grazing also can spread parasites.
Goats have specific nutritional needs, only some of which are met by the plants on your farm that they browse on. You have to provide feed for the needs that can't be met by browsing. Unless you have a lot of property with a variety of browse, feed will be your biggest expense in raising goats. Don't scrimp on goat feed — it will pay dividends in good health, milk production, and lower veterinary bills.
Feeding hay and alfalfa
Hay is the main source of nutrients for goats in non-grazing seasons, or all the time if they don't have access to browse. Grass hay provides a moderate amount of protein and energy for the goat diet. Legume hays, such as clover and alfalfa, usually have more protein, vitamins, and minerals, particularly calcium, than grass hays. This varies depending on the maturity of the hay or alfalfa and the way that it's cured and stored.
Each goat needs 2 to 4 pounds of hay each day, although some of this need can be met by available pasture or other forage. Make it available free choice throughout the day when pasture is unavailable or feed twice a day when goats are also browsing.
You can feed alfalfa (and some grass hays) in pellet form if you don't have storage or if you want to mix it with grain. The goats don't waste so much alfalfa when it's in pellets, and you can limit who gets it by combining it with their grain.
Using chaffhaye instead of hay and alfalfa
Chaffhaye is forage in a bag and substitutes for hay. To make chaffhaye, producers cut early alfalfa or grass, chop it, mist it with molasses, add the culture bacillus subtillis, and vacuum-pack it into 50-pound bags. The treated hay ferments in the bag, adding good bacteria that's easy for goats to digest. It provides more energy, vitamins, and minerals than dried hay.
Goats need up to 2 pounds of chaffhaye per 100 pounds of body weight when you feed it as an alternative to hay. The nutritional value of one 50-pound bag of chaffhaye is equivalent to an 85- to 100-pound bale of good-quality hay.
Feeding grain
Grain or pelleted grain mixes add protein, vitamins, and minerals to a goat's diet. Some are formulated specifically for goats. Grain options include the following:
Whole grain: This is the whole, unprocessed grain seed head.
Pelleted grain: A product made from grain or grain byproducts milled into small pieces and then made into pellets by adding a binding agent.
Rolled grain: Nutritionally identical to whole grain, rolled grain is simply rolled so that it's flat.
Texturized grain: Similar to rolled grain, texturized feed mixes usually have other ingredients added to improve nutrition.
Thursday, May 22, 2014
How to Build a Mineral Block Holder for Your Goats
You can build a simple mineral block holder.
To make the mineral block holder, you need the following equipment and materials:
Hand saw or circular saw
Drill
Pencil
Yardstick or other measure
Carpenters' square
Level
One eight-foot long untreated 2 x 6 board
One sheet of 3/4-inch untreated plywood
56 3-inch deck screws
12 1 1/2-inch flat-head screws
To make your own mineral block holder, follow these steps:
Measure your 2 x 6 and mark with pencil at 12-inch intervals.
Use the carpenters' square to make sure the ends are even. (Note: You can make the top section from a 2 x 4, but you need to use a 2 x 6 for the bottom so the mineral block can rest on it.)
With your saw, cut eight 12-inch pieces from your 2 x 6 for the sides.
Measure your plywood.
Mark two 13 1/2-inch by 13 1/2-inch pieces for the top and bottom
Mark two 6 1/2-inch by 16-inch pieces for the top and bottom braces, which will be cut at a 45-degree angle
Cut all the pieces of plywood.
Using eight screws (two for each corner), screw together four of the 12-inch 2 x 6 pieces to make a 13 1/2-inch square.
To make the box square, make sure each piece of wood is attached on the inside on one end and the outside on the other.
Attach the first piece of plywood to the top of the square with 12 screws.
Assemble the bottom section by repeating Steps 5 and 6.
Using a level to ensure that it is even, attach the top and bottom sections to the post or wall with eight screws each so the bottom of the top and the top of the bottom are 16 inches apart.
Attach the bottom piece 14 inches from the ground or higher. The plywood should be on top for the top piece and on the bottom for the bottom piece. Don't situate it too high or too low for your goats to comfortably eat the mineral.
Place the top brace with one against the center of the plywood "top" and the other against the post at a 45-degree angle and attach with three screws on each end.
Place the bottom brace with one end against the plywood "bottom" and one end against the post at a 45-degree angle and attach with three screws on each end.
To make a better fit, you can cut the end.
Tuesday, April 29, 2014
Angora Meat Goats
Angora Meat Goats are a medium sized breed that grows very long curly coats, known as mohair. These Angora Meat Goats are of Turkish origin. Angoras are fairly laid back and docile but not very hardy.
Angora goats may be the most efficient fiber producers on Earth. These makers of mohair came from and were named after Ankara (Angora before 1930), the Turkish province where they have thrived for centuries. Turkey guarded these goats against exportation until 1849 when seven does and two bucks were imported into the United States. Later, more were imported from Turkey and South Africa, the two principal mohair producers in the 19th century.
But now the United States has become one of the two biggest producers (along with South Africa) of mohair — the long, lustrous, wavy hair that goes into fine garments. The other primary fiber from goats is cashmere (see "A Small-Scale Agriculture Alternative, Cashmere Goats", December 1992). But crossing Angora with cashmere goats results in a fiber called cashgora, with very limited use and characteristics of neither fine fiber.
The two goat types also differ in temperaments. The angoras are relaxed and docile, while cashmere and/or Spanish meat goats are often flighty and high strung. Angora goats, which do produce mohair, do not produce Angora hair. Only rabbits can produce Angora hair.
Although Angora goats are somewhat delicate, they grow their fleeces year-round. This puts considerable strain on the animal, and probably contributes to their lack of hardiness.
About 90 percent of the U.S. mohair clip originates in Texas, but the goats are raised across wide areas of the United States. They adapt well to many conditions, but are particularly suited to the arid southwestern states. Central and southwestern Texas have all the major mohair warehouses.
Angora goats may be the most efficient fiber producers on Earth. These makers of mohair came from and were named after Ankara (Angora before 1930), the Turkish province where they have thrived for centuries. Turkey guarded these goats against exportation until 1849 when seven does and two bucks were imported into the United States. Later, more were imported from Turkey and South Africa, the two principal mohair producers in the 19th century.
But now the United States has become one of the two biggest producers (along with South Africa) of mohair — the long, lustrous, wavy hair that goes into fine garments. The other primary fiber from goats is cashmere (see "A Small-Scale Agriculture Alternative, Cashmere Goats", December 1992). But crossing Angora with cashmere goats results in a fiber called cashgora, with very limited use and characteristics of neither fine fiber.
The two goat types also differ in temperaments. The angoras are relaxed and docile, while cashmere and/or Spanish meat goats are often flighty and high strung. Angora goats, which do produce mohair, do not produce Angora hair. Only rabbits can produce Angora hair.
Although Angora goats are somewhat delicate, they grow their fleeces year-round. This puts considerable strain on the animal, and probably contributes to their lack of hardiness.
About 90 percent of the U.S. mohair clip originates in Texas, but the goats are raised across wide areas of the United States. They adapt well to many conditions, but are particularly suited to the arid southwestern states. Central and southwestern Texas have all the major mohair warehouses.
Thursday, April 3, 2014
Fleckvieh - A cow with high milk production
Fleckvieh (or Miling Simmental) is the second largest dairy breed in the world – and one of Europe’s oldest. At the moment, there are an estimated 42 million cattle with Fleckvieh bloodlines worldwide. Developed in the highlands of Germany, Switzerland and Austria, the breed became popular in most parts of the world because of their adaptability to harsh climatic conditions.
“The Fleckvieh cow is durable, hardy and easy to handle even within a small farm,” says Dr. Anthony Gichohi from Fleckvieh Genetics (EA). “They are able to move easily even in the most difficult terrain. A mature Fleckvieh has good strength and body development. A mature cow weighs about 650-800 kilograms. The breed has a very large and active genetic potential. We believe it is going to be one of the major breeds in the country once farmers discover its quality,” he says.
Studies show that every 1 kg of milk from a Fleckvieh cow contains 4.2% fat and 3.7% protein in addition the milk is also rich in other micronutrients and Omega 3 fats – which are vital for a healthy body. According to Dr Wanjohi, Fleckvieh bulls are fast growing and gain muscle at a rate of 1.5 kilogrammes per day for the first 200 days when cross-bred with other breeds, the farmer is assured of high quality of milk and beef. Under intensive fattening conditions, young bulls reach a daily weight gain of more than 1300 grams. In the first 6 months after birth, a bull can attain up to 300 kg with proper feeding and management.
Compared with other breeds, Fleckvieh owners will not have to incur huge veterinary bills – due to the breed’s ability to withstand some of the common livestock diseases, mastitis for instance – This is an inflammation of the udder that cuts down milk production. The infection is caused by somatic cells (dead cells) from the bloodstreams that get into the milk in the udder. Fleckvieh cow milk has lower numbers of somatic cells compared to other dairy breeds, meaning that Fleckvieh is less prone to mastitis; there is another advantage: Less somatic cells means: The milk lasts longer without refrigeration.
And, since Fleckvieh has a very thick skin, it is more resistant against diseases transmitted by ticks and tsetse flies- the proboscis of these vectors cannot penetrate the thick Fleckvieh skin.
Farmers are usually more interested in the amount of milk a cow can produce. But what goes for Holstein-Fresian and other breeds, can as well be said of Fleckvieh: The amount of milk a cow produces depends directly on the feed it is given and the way it is kept. With sufficient and nutritious feed, a healthy cow can produce a lot of milk; if the feed is poor, the milk yield will be less. Farmers sometimes forget the relationship between the feed given and the milk output.
Tuesday, March 11, 2014
All the Right Reasons to Raise Pigs
Did you know that agriculture itself could scarcely have evolved eons ago without the recycling abilities of the pig? Yet fewer and fewer farmers raise even a single pig these days. Here are some quirky, interesting facts about our smelly little friends.
No barnyard animal has a better nose, yet none produce more odoriferous manure.
The pig has cloven hooves—an adaptation shared with flighty prey animals like the sheep, deer, and antelope—yet no barnyard animal displays as much swagger or is less afraid.
No animal is said to be smarter, yet pigs will stay out in the sun so long that they’ll repeatedly end up with second-degree sunburns.
The pig is the friendliest animal on the farm by far: always available for a scratch behind the ears, hardly ever moody, and quick with a grunt of delight. Yet the pig would also eat you for supper, if circumstances were right. Pigs are the only meat-eating animals that we humans, in turn, raise for meat.
The pig is said to be the cleanest animal on the farm, yet every child knows that a pig will roll in a mud puddle at the first opportunity.
Pigskin (the traditional covering of a football) is one of the toughest and most useful of animal hides, yet a pig’s skin is extremely sensitive to temperature and injury.
Some breeds of pigs grow ferocious-looking tusks yet dine primarily on roots and vegetables.
The fastest member of the pig family is the warthog, which can reach speeds of 35 MPH.
Though "pigging out" is synonymous with gluttony, the stomach of a pig is proportionately much smaller than that of a sheep or a cow.
Tuesday, February 18, 2014
The best types of goats for meat
There are some strains of #goats that have been genetically selected by man specifically for #meat. Some of these are actual #breeds while others of these are just beginning to have distinct traits that pass reliably from parents to offspring. The breeds or stains used in the #U.S. have all been genetically selected from populations of goats brought by settlers to new countries. These #goats were often allowed to become almost feral (run wild). Under these conditions, only those who could survive their rugged environment lived long enough to produce offspring. This type of genetic selection where nature not man choses which #livestock will be used to produce offspring is called natural selection. These breeds or strains include:
1) Spanish Meat Goat - Spanish goats are the descendants of goats brought to the U.S. by early New England settlers. They migrated south and probably interbred with goats brought into Texas and Mexico by early Spanish settlers. Their ancestry is as mixed up as that of a mongrel dog. Their rugged environment shaped them into very tough, rather small goats. Specific ranchers have genetically selected Spanish goats for better meat production by keeping only the biggest or meatiest bucks for breeding to females. Nubian bucks have sometimes been crossed with them to improve size, milk production of dams, and fleshiness of the kids. These meatier goats are known as Spanish Meat goats. They come in almost any color and are usually left horned. Their ears are somewhat pendulous but shorter than a Nubian’s. Many of them produce a cashmere undercoat in winter.
2) Tennessee Meat Goat - in 1880 a flock of myotonic goats was identified on a farm in Tennessee. Myotonic means that they have a condition that caused their muscles to lock up whenever they were startled. Sometimes their muscles lock up so suddenly that they fall over. This was the origin of the Tennesee Stiff-Leg or Fainting Goat population. These goats come in many color combinations and have airplane ears (shaped like Alpine ears but not erect, instead they jut out sideways). Texas ranchers at Onion Creek Farm chose from this population, goats with the largest frames and heaviest muscles to keep for breeding purposes. Gradually they produced a goat that is larger and heavier than the original strain. These selected goats are known as Tennesse Meat Goats. The constant stiffening and relaxing of the muscles of myotonic goats may result in heavy rear leg muscling, tender meat, and a high meat to bone ratio.
3) South African Boer Goat - This South African breed probably resulted from crossbreeding of native goats raised by Bantu tribes and various European and Asian goats brought in by Dutch immigrants. In the 1800s, SA goat farmers started selecting for compact, muscular, short-haired goats. They were able to produce a strain of goat that bred true for high growth rate, muscular carcasses, good fertility, and short hair combined with a very distinct color pattern (white body and red head). In 1959, breed standards were adopted and they became a recognized breed. Boer goats were introduced into the US in the early 1990s. Under good nutritional conditions, Boer goat crossbreds produce outstanding weight gains and carcasses.
4) New Zealand Kiko Goat - The Kiko goat was produced in New Zealand by taking feral does that exhibited good meat conformation and breeding them with Saanen and Nubian bucks to increase their milk yield and butterfat content. Those bucks and does whose offspring grew best (as measured by weight gain) under rugged conditions were chosen to produce the future generations. Kikos have similar ears to Spanish goats but are usually larger framed. They are often white like their Saanen ancestors.
Friday, January 24, 2014
5 Critical Tips For Livestock Farmers As Weather Turns Harsh
When Minnesota's weather turns extreme, the pressure is on for #livestock #farmers.
Extension's #livestock team has the latest in research to #help #farmers ensure the safety environments, both indoors and outdoors, for their #animals.
1.Cold stress in #calves can spell trouble
2.Wind, snow and cold temperatures impact all #cattle. Nutritional needs can provide a particular challenge for #cattle owners.
3. #Horses can tolerate a wide range of temperatures. but they have a host of health needs in the colder months.
4.For the #pork #farmers, building safety is paramount.
5.#Lambing season will be here soon. #Lambs need an environment with the right mixture of warmth and fresh air at birth so they can thrive in the longer term.
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